Introduction: Where Function Meets Design
The kitchen has always been the heart of the home—but the way we think about it has changed. Gone are the days when everything revolved around a rigid triangular layout. Today, kitchens are designed around zones: prep, cook, clean. And at the center of the clean zone, doing more work than any other fixture, is your sink.
The Boelon Waterfall Kitchen Sink is not a standard fixture. It combines a high-performance basin with a lateral waterfall faucet bar and a built-in hydroelectric display—all precision-engineered to work as a single, cohesive system. Whether you are handling a full luxury renovation or tackling this as a confident DIY project, getting the installation right matters a lot.
This guide walks you through everything: site preparation, component identification, two professional installation methods, and the final integration of the waterfall and LED technology. Take your time with each phase. When done correctly, this sink will look and perform exactly as it was designed to.
Phase I: Pre-Installation and Site Survey
Before you open a single box, spend time verifying your installation site. Surprises mid-installation are frustrating. Surprises with plumbing are expensive. A thorough site check takes 20 minutes and can save hours of remediation.
Cabinetry Verification
The Boelon sink itself measures 75 cm (29.5") in width. However, a cabinet that just barely clears those dimensions is not enough. You need room for mounting hardware, plumbing connections, and a little breathing space when you are working underneath. We recommend a base cabinet of at least 84–91 cm (33"–36"). If your current cabinet is narrower, address that before proceeding.
Countertop Material Considerations
Your countertop material will determine which installation method you use. This is not a preference—it is a structural reality.
• Laminate or Wood: These surfaces are best suited to Top-Mount (Drop-In) installation. The sink rim sits on the surface, distributing its weight evenly and hiding the cut edge.
• Solid Stone or Composite (Quartz, Granite, Marble): Go Undermount. The clean countertop-to-basin transition is especially striking with stone, and it showcases the waterfall feature beautifully.
Plumbing Check
Check your shut-off valves. Turn them. Are they stiff, corroded, or leaking? If so, replace them now—before the new sink is sitting in the opening and you realize the valve beneath it does not fully close. This is basic plumbing hygiene, and it protects your investment.
Phase II: The Anatomy of a Boelon Sink
A Boelon sink is a fully integrated system, not just a basin with a faucet attached. Spend a few minutes getting familiar with the components before you begin. Understanding what each part does will make the installation process far more intuitive.
The Main Faucet
A pull-down faucet with a full 360° swivel range. It handles everyday tasks—filling pots, rinsing produce, washing hands—with the flexibility you expect from a professional-grade fixture.
The Waterfall Manifold
This horizontal bar is the sink's signature feature. It delivers a wide, laminar sheet of water across the basin—smooth, quiet, and visually striking. Switch it to shower mode and it transitions into a broad-spray rinse, perfect for clearing the basin quickly or washing large cutting boards.
The Control Console
Two dedicated knobs sit at the console. One manages the drain open/close mechanism—no more reaching into a wet basin to pull a stopper. The other controls water temperature with precise, tactile feedback. Simple. Purposeful.
The Hydroelectric Module
This is perhaps the most innovative component in the system. The hydroelectric module contains a small internal turbine that generates electricity from your water flow—no batteries, no wiring, no external power source required. That energy powers the LED display. It is elegant engineering hidden inside a fixture you use every single day.
Phase III: Installation Methodologies
Method A: Top-Mount (Drop-In) — The Professional DIY Path
Top-mount installation is the more accessible of the two methods, and for good reason. The sink's rim rests directly on the countertop surface and carries its own weight. No structural epoxy, no diamond drill bits, no stone fabricator required. If you're working with laminate or wood and you have basic carpentry confidence, this is your path.
Step 1: Tracing the Cutout
Using a pencil, trace the cutout outline directly onto the countertop surface. The recommended cutout dimensions are 72 × 43 cm (approximately 28.3" × 16.9"). Before you cut anything, apply blue painter's tape along the cut line. This is especially important on laminate—the tape reduces chip-out and gives your jigsaw blade a cleaner surface to track against.
Step 2: Cutting the Opening
Fit a fine-tooth blade to your jigsaw and make the cut with steady, controlled passes. Speed is not your friend here. Once the cutout is removed, do a dry fit—lower the sink into the opening without any sealant and confirm it sits flush and level. Adjust the opening if needed before you move on.
Step 3: Sealing the Rim
Wipe the countertop edge clean with denatured alcohol and allow it to fully dry. Then apply a thick, continuous bead of 100% silicone sealant around the entire underside of the sink rim. No gaps, no thin spots. This seal is your waterproofing layer.
Step 4: Setting the Sink
Lower the sink carefully into the opening and press down firmly across the rim. Then—and this is a trick worth knowing—place several full gallon jugs of water inside the basin. Their weight holds constant, even pressure on the silicone while it cures. Leave them in place for at least 4 hours. The result is a tight, professional seal that will not fail.
Method B: Undermount — The Luxury Standard
Undermount installation is the premium choice. The basin sits below the countertop surface, leaving no rim, no lip, and no edge to trap crumbs or water. Countertop debris wipes directly into the sink. It's a cleaner look, a cleaner workflow, and—when paired with the Boelon waterfall bar—a genuinely stunning kitchen centerpiece.
That said, undermount requires more precision and, in most cases, professional involvement at certain steps.
Professional Cutouts
We strongly recommend having your stone fabricator cut the countertop opening based on the sink's physical dimensions—not a paper template. Templates can shift. A fabricator working directly from the hardware achieves the kind of zero-reveal or positive-reveal finish that looks intentional rather than approximate.
Mounting Hardware
The mounting clips attach to the underside of the stone. Use a diamond drill bit to create pilot holes—standard bits will crack stone. Take your time. Slow, steady pressure with the correct tooling yields clean holes; forcing it does not.
Adhesion
Apply high-strength epoxy or silicone around the sink rim before seating it against the stone. This creates both the watertight bond and a structural connection. Tighten the mounting clips evenly after the adhesive is applied—overtightening one side before the others are snug can cause the basin to seat unevenly.
Phase IV: Integrating the Waterfall and Technology
This is where the Boelon sink separates itself from everything else on the market. Standard sinks are done once the basin is set. The Boelon is just getting interesting.
Connecting the Console
The control valve sits at the heart of the plumbing connections. It receives both the hot and cold supply lines. From there, two separate braided hoses branch out—one feeds the main faucet, and one feeds the waterfall manifold bar.
Hydroelectric Connection
Locate the small turbine module. The connectors must be properly attached to the A and B ports as indicated. These must be connected correctly—the module will not function if they are reversed. Get this right the first time.
Testing the Flow
Turn the water supply on slowly—not all at once. Let pressure build gradually while you inspect every connection. Run your fingers along each joint and look for what plumbers call micro-drips: tiny seeps that seem harmless but signal an incomplete seal. Address them now, before water reaches anything it shouldn't.
If the LED display flickers or fails to illuminate, do not panic. A flickering display almost always means a small piece of installation debris has found its way into the turbine. Run the water at full flow for 30–60 seconds to flush the lines. In the vast majority of cases, the display stabilizes immediately.
Conclusion: The Finishing Touch
Installation complete. Now step back.
Peel away every piece of protective film. Wipe the basin, the faucet neck, the waterfall bar, and the control console with a clean, dry cloth. The Boelon should look exactly as it did in the showroom—because you took the time to do this properly.
This is not just a kitchen sink. It is a functional piece of design—one that will anchor your workspace, impress anyone who sees it, and perform reliably for years.